Circuit Schematic & Circuit Board Design #41
Replies: 4 comments 10 replies
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Ordered! |
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Cool, I'm in Idaho. I'll test the boards when I get them next week and post the results here. |
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I haven't, well tried tried is more accurate. I wasn't able to get the tuya local stuff to work . I figured I should just replace the junk if possible. Am I wrong that this is the idea here? Replacement esphome breakout? |
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No, just curious. |
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Just ordered the D1 mini. What's your price on a custom board? I'll take one. |
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Let’s wait & make sure they work first! I’m just glad others are enjoying this project. The boards were $2.68 each. I can ship that along with the 8 pin and 4 pin connectors (male+female) and low profile pins for all the chips for $10. I have several D1s coming as well. |
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Good News, the circuit board worked! I made a total ROOKIE mistake though and drew a frigging box around the level shifter, and put it on the copper layer instead of the silkscreen layer. My circuit board trace remover tool came in handy and I just cut the traces, so no big deal. And I had the JST connector backwards on the silkscreen - purely cosmetic. Or not - depend on how you wire yours! labels on back of new board now for VCC & GND. I had to ditch the socket pins idea. There's just no room for them, so I used the std header pins to mount the ESP and shifter directly to the board. Here it is finished and running like a champ.
Here's where I mount the USB connector that goes to the main MCU board for the Auger control. There's just enough room behind the main power wires JST connector. If you want me to send you a kit with the circuit board (new board - see below) along with the JST connectors, use this link. Choose Flat Rate Shipping and its included for $15. https://modeltstarters.com/product/pellet-stove-circuit-board/ |
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New boards ordered & problems fixed by adding a 2nd level converter for the Auger MCU lines. I expect them by ~Jan 7-10 or so. 
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SUCCESS! Circuit board works great. I have 5 extras if anyone needs one. https://modeltstarters.com/product/pellet-stove-circuit-board/ |
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Yes, I'm cheating. I really don't want to debug my first PCB w/ an ESP32 and all the support chips, so I'm using an existing board. Plus, a fully populated board is not cheap and plain circuit boards are dirt cheap! So I'm using a very small, off the shelf dev board - Wemos ESP32 D1 Mini, (mine are actually clones).
https://www.amazon.com/ACEIRMC-ESP-WROOM-32-Bluetooth-Development-Compatible/dp/B08PNWB81Z/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&sr=1-1
And I have a dozen level shifters already.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YZTW2SM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It needs a once over verification, but its all there. I just realized that I tapped Tx & Rx from the TYWE1S chip and not from the header pins. I think those are buffered/level shifted. So, I'll need to see if I can eliminate the buffers. It "should" work on RX as the ESP32 can handle 5v inputs. I may need to use the 1 leftover level shifter on the TX line though. I'll test itthat way.
I was careful to ensure the D1 Mini fits under the housing. As long as I don't use the plastic part on the header pins it should fit. I also ordered some low profile headers w/ circular pins to try out on the ESP to get it as close to the board as possible.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BYWQXYZQ?ref=fed_asin_title
Next its off to JLCPCB to get it made.
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